The Complete Guide to Indian Handloom Saree Types: 15 Weaves Every Saree Lover Should Know

India is home to over 100 distinct handloom saree traditions, each with its own weaving technique, motifs, and cultural significance. This guide covers 15 of the most celebrated handwoven saree types from Kanjivaram and Banarasi to rare Patan Patola and Eco-Printed silks explaining what makes each unique, what occasions they suit, and how to choose the right one. At The Saffron House, we source every saree directly from master weavers across India, ensuring 100% handwoven authenticity.

By Meera, Founder & CEO of The Saffron House. With years of experience sourcing directly from master weavers in Kanchipuram, Varanasi, Patan, and Maharashtra, Meera curates one of India's finest collections of handwoven silk sarees from her boutiques in Bangalore and Hyderabad.

1. Kanjivaram (Kanchipuram) Silk Sarees

Origin: Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu | Fabric: Pure Mulberry Silk | Price Range: ₹15,000 – ₹2,00,000+

Kanjivaram sarees are widely regarded as the queen of Indian silk weaves. Handwoven in the temple town of Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu, these sarees are made from pure mulberry silk with real gold or silver zari. What sets a Kanjivaram apart is its weight, lustre, and the distinctive technique where the body and border are woven separately and then interlocked — a method called korvai.

Kanjivarams are the traditional choice for South Indian weddings, temple ceremonies, and formal celebrations. They are known for their wide, ornate borders featuring motifs like peacocks (mayil), temple towers (gopuram), mango (maanga), and mythical creatures (yali). The most prized Kanjivarams feature pure zari — real gold or silver thread wound around a silk core — which gives them their signature shimmer.

At The Saffron House, we carry one of the widest Kanjivaram selections available online, including Korvai Kanjivarams, Brocade Kanjivarams, Tissue Kanjivarams, Pastel Kanjivarams, Silver Zari Kanjivarams, and Bridal Kanjivarams.

Best for: Weddings (especially South Indian), temple visits, milestone celebrations, trousseau collections

2. Banarasi Silk Sarees

Origin: Varanasi (Banaras), Uttar Pradesh | Fabric: Pure Silk, Katan, Organza, Georgette | Price Range: ₹10,000 – ₹1,50,000+

Banarasi sarees are the pride of Varanasi and have been woven here for over 500 years, with roots in Mughal-era patronage. They are characterized by intricate brocade weaving, elaborate floral and foliate patterns, and the use of fine gold and silver zari. The most traditional Banarasi sarees feature jangla (dense, all-over vine patterns), butidar (small repeating motifs), and tanchoi (subtle tone-on-tone weaves).

There are several sub-types of Banarasi sarees, each with distinct characteristics. Katan silk is the purest form — woven entirely from fine twisted silk threads for a strong, smooth drape. Organza Banarasi has a sheer, lightweight quality ideal for summer celebrations. Georgette Banarasi offers a flowing drape. Kora Banarasi has a slightly stiff, textured feel. At The Saffron House, we carry Pure Banarasi Silks, Katan Banarasi, Banarasi Organza, Banarasi Georgette, and Banarasi Kora.

Best for: North Indian weddings, Durga Puja, receptions, festive celebrations, bridal trousseau

3. Paithani Sarees

Origin: Paithan, Maharashtra | Fabric: Pure Mulberry Silk | Price Range: ₹25,000 – ₹2,00,000+

Paithani sarees are Maharashtra's most treasured textile heritage, with a history spanning over 2,000 years. Named after the ancient town of Paithan on the banks of the Godavari river, these sarees are handwoven using a unique interlocking weft technique (also called tapestry weave) where every motif is created thread by thread without any embroidery. The result is a saree where the design appears equally vivid on both sides — making Paithanis inherently reversible.

The hallmark motifs of a Paithani include the peacock (mor), lotus (kamal), parrot (popat), and Asawali (flowering vine). The pallu is always the most elaborate part, often featuring a richly woven peacock tableau. Authentic Paithanis use pure mulberry silk with real gold zari, and a single saree can take anywhere from 2 months to over a year to complete. At The Saffron House, we source our Paithani collection directly from weaving families in Maharashtra.

Best for: Maharashtrian weddings, Nauvari draping, festive occasions, heirloom collections

4. Patan Patola (Double Ikkat) Sarees

Origin: Patan, Gujarat | Fabric: Pure Silk | Price Range: ₹1,00,000 – ₹5,00,000+

Patan Patola is among the rarest and most technically demanding textile traditions in the world. Woven exclusively in the town of Patan in Gujarat by a handful of Salvi family weavers who have preserved this 900-year-old craft across generations, a Patan Patola saree is a true collector's item.

What makes Patola extraordinary is the double ikkat technique — both the warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) threads are individually resist-dyed before weaving. The weaver must align thousands of pre-dyed threads with absolute precision to create the geometric patterns. A single saree can take 4 to 6 months to complete. The traditional motifs include Narikunj (dancing figures), Vohra Gaji (elephant procession), Chhabdi Bhat (basket weave), and Paan Bhat (pipal leaf).

Patan Patola sarees are considered so precious that they were historically traded as diplomatic gifts and dowry across Southeast Asia. At The Saffron House, our Patan Patola collection features authentic double ikkat pieces, including some in our Collector's Edit — ranging from ₹1,60,000 to over ₹2,00,000.

Best for: Collectors, connoisseurs, milestone gifts, Gujarati and Rajasthani weddings, investment pieces

5. Zari Kota Sarees

Origin: Kota, Rajasthan | Fabric: Silk and Cotton blend (Kota Doria) | Price Range: ₹8,000 – ₹1,65,000+

Zari Kota sarees, also known as Kota Doria, originate from the city of Kota in Rajasthan. They are instantly recognizable by their distinctive checkered pattern (khat) created by the square-grid weave of cotton and silk threads. The fabric is exceptionally lightweight and translucent, making Zari Kota sarees ideal for hot climates and daytime events.

The finest Zari Kota sarees feature delicate zari work — gold or silver thread woven into the checks, border, and pallu. The tissue variants, woven with a higher proportion of zari, have a luminous quality. At The Saffron House, our Zari Kota collection includes rare pieces in our Collector's Edit that go up to ₹1,65,000 for exceptional tissue weaves with pure zari.

Best for: Summer events, daytime weddings, office wear, lightweight formal occasions

6. Jamdani Sarees

Origin: Bengal (India & Bangladesh) | Fabric: Fine Cotton or Silk | Price Range: ₹10,000 – ₹60,000+

Jamdani is one of the finest muslin textiles in the world, recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. The weaving technique involves supplementary weft — individual motifs are added by hand on the loom using an extra set of threads, creating patterns that appear to float on the sheer base fabric. This makes Jamdani one of the most labour-intensive weaves, with a single saree taking weeks to months to complete.

Traditional Jamdani motifs include geometric patterns, floral sprays, and the iconic panna hazaar (thousand emeralds) design. The fabric is famously lightweight — so sheer that Mughal poets called it "woven air." While Jamdani originated as a cotton tradition, modern variants include silk Jamdanis that retain the delicate weave with added lustre. Browse our Jamdani collection at The Saffron House.

Best for: Bengali weddings, Durga Puja, casual elegance, intellectual gatherings, literary events

7. Chikankari Sarees

Origin: Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh | Fabric: Cotton, Georgette, Silk | Price Range: ₹8,000 – ₹50,000+

Chikankari is the art of delicate hand embroidery from Lucknow, featuring intricate white-on-white threadwork that creates a subtle, elegant surface texture. While technically an embroidery tradition rather than a weave, Chikankari on handwoven silk or cotton bases creates some of India's most refined sarees. The craft involves over 36 different stitch types, including tepchi, phanda, jaali, and murri — each creating a distinct textural effect.

At The Saffron House, we carry Chikankari sarees crafted on silk bases, combining the artistry of Lucknawi embroidery with the richness of handwoven fabric. Our Chikankari Stories lookbook showcases how we style these for both casual and formal settings.

Best for: Office wear, daytime events, subtle elegance, summer weddings, Eid celebrations

8. Kalamkari Sarees

Origin: Andhra Pradesh & Telangana | Fabric: Cotton or Silk | Price Range: ₹8,000 – ₹40,000+

Kalamkari literally means "pen work" — an ancient art form where designs are hand-drawn or block-printed onto fabric using natural, vegetable-based dyes. The two main styles are Srikalahasti Kalamkari (entirely hand-drawn with a bamboo pen) and Machilipatnam Kalamkari (block-printed). Motifs typically depict scenes from Hindu epics, temple architecture, and nature — making each Kalamkari saree a wearable painting.

The natural dyeing process is elaborate: the fabric undergoes multiple washes, treatments with buffalo milk, and repeated dye baths using indigo, pomegranate, iron rust, and myrobalan. At The Saffron House, our Kalamkari sarees feature this heritage craft on silk bases for a richer drape and lustre.

Best for: Temple visits, art lovers, cultural events, office wear, casual celebrations

9. Bandhini (Bandhej) Sarees

Origin: Rajasthan & Gujarat | Fabric: Silk, Georgette, Cotton | Price Range: ₹5,000 – ₹35,000+

Bandhini is India's ancient tie-and-dye technique, where skilled artisans pluck tiny points of fabric with their fingernails and tie them with thread to create resist patterns before dyeing. A single saree can have thousands of individually tied dots, creating mesmerizing patterns like shikari (geometric grid), leheriya (waves), ekdali (single dot), and chaubasi (four dots). The art is primarily practised by the Khatri community in Rajasthan and Gujarat.

Bandhini sarees are vibrant, festive, and deeply auspicious — red and yellow bandhini is a traditional gift for new brides in Rajasthani and Gujarati communities. Explore our Bandhini collection at The Saffron House.

Best for: Festive wear, Rajasthani and Gujarati weddings, Navratri, casual celebrations

10. Meenakari Sarees

Origin: Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh | Fabric: Pure Silk with coloured thread | Price Range: ₹12,000 – ₹60,000+

Meenakari is a weaving technique that borrows its name from the Meenakari enamelling art of Rajasthan. In a Meenakari saree, coloured silk threads are woven alongside zari to create vibrant, multi-hued patterns within the border and pallu — mimicking the jewel-toned effect of enamel work on gold jewellery. This technique is most commonly applied to Banarasi sarees, adding pops of red, green, blue, and pink amid the golden zari.

The result is exceptionally rich and ornate — Meenakari sarees are show-stoppers at weddings and grand celebrations. Browse our Meenakari collection at The Saffron House.

Best for: Weddings, receptions, festive evenings, statement occasions

11. Tussar (Tussah) Silk Sarees

Origin: Bihar, Jharkhand, West Bengal, Odisha | Fabric: Wild Silk | Price Range: ₹6,000 – ₹30,000+

Tussar silk is a wild silk — produced by silkworms that feed on forest trees like sal and arjun, rather than cultivated mulberry. This gives Tussar its distinctive natural golden-beige colour, rich texture, and slightly coarse hand-feel. Unlike the smooth sheen of mulberry silk, Tussar has a more matte, earthy lustre that many saree connoisseurs prize for its organic, understated elegance.

Tussar silk sarees are especially popular in eastern India and are woven with a variety of techniques — from plain weaves to elaborate Jamdani-style supplementary weft patterns. They take natural dyes exceptionally well. Explore our Tussar collection at The Saffron House.

Best for: Autumn and winter wear, intellectual gatherings, office, art exhibitions, earthy-chic styling

12. Mysore Silk Sarees

Origin: Mysore, Karnataka | Fabric: Pure Silk | Price Range: ₹8,000 – ₹30,000+

Mysore silk sarees carry the Geographical Indication (GI) tag and are known for their soft texture, lightweight drape, and subtle zari work. Unlike the heavy, ornate Kanjivaram, Mysore silks are understated — featuring simple zari borders and minimal motifs on a smooth, lustrous silk body. They are woven using pure mulberry silk from Karnataka's own sericulture farms.

Mysore silks are the everyday luxury of Karnataka — elegant enough for formal occasions yet comfortable enough for daily wear. They are the traditional choice for Dasara celebrations. Browse our Mysore Silk collection at The Saffron House.

Best for: Daily elegance, office wear, Dasara, South Indian festivals, comfortable formal wear

13. Gadwal Silk Sarees

Origin: Gadwal, Telangana | Fabric: Cotton body with Silk border (or full silk) | Price Range: ₹6,000 – ₹25,000+

Gadwal sarees are a distinctive Telangana tradition, uniquely combining a cotton body with a rich silk border and pallu — a technique called kuttu (interlocking). This gives the wearer the comfort of cotton with the grandeur of silk borders. The borders are typically broad and feature temple-inspired motifs similar to Kanjivaram designs, making Gadwal sarees a lighter, more wearable alternative to heavier silk sarees.

Full-silk Gadwal sarees are also available, though the cotton-silk combination remains the hallmark. Explore our Gadwal collection at The Saffron House.

Best for: Hot-weather comfort, temple visits, everyday elegance, Telangana weddings

14. Cotton Silk Sarees

Origin: Various regions across India | Fabric: Cotton-Silk blend | Price Range: ₹5,000 – ₹20,000+

Cotton silk sarees blend the breathability and comfort of cotton with the sheen and drape of silk. They are woven in numerous traditions across India — from Kanchipuram-style cotton silks to Banarasi cotton silk variants. These sarees are ideal for women who love the look of silk but want something lighter and more practical for everyday or warm-weather wear.

At The Saffron House, our Cotton Silk collection features handwoven pieces that offer the elegance of silk at a more accessible price point — perfect for building a versatile saree wardrobe.

Best for: Daily wear, office, casual celebrations, warm-weather comfort, saree beginners

15. Eco-Printed Sarees

Origin: Contemporary artisan technique on traditional silk | Fabric: Pure Silk | Price Range: ₹15,000 – ₹40,000+

Eco-printed sarees represent a beautiful fusion of ancient handloom with contemporary sustainable practices. In this technique, real leaves, petals, and roots are placed directly onto pure silk fabric and slow-processed using steam, pressure, and natural mordants. The botanical elements transfer their pigments, shapes, and textures onto the silk — creating one-of-a-kind, unrepeatable prints.

No two eco-printed sarees are ever the same, making each piece a wearable work of art. This technique uses zero chemical dyes and minimal water — making it one of the most sustainable saree production methods available. At The Saffron House, we pioneered this collection to offer women who value both artistry and environmental responsibility a truly unique option. Explore our Eco-Printed Sarees.

Best for: Art lovers, sustainability-conscious buyers, unique gifts, gallery events, contemporary styling

How to Choose the Right Handwoven Saree

Choosing a handwoven saree comes down to four factors: occasion (wedding vs. daily wear), climate (heavy silk vs. lightweight cotton silk), regional tradition (South Indian ceremonies favour Kanjivarams; North Indian weddings lean toward Banarasi), and personal style (ornate vs. minimal, bold colours vs. pastels).

If you are new to handwoven sarees, a good starting point is a Cotton Silk or Mysore Silk for everyday elegance, a Kanjivaram or Banarasi for your first investment piece, and a Patan Patola or Collector's Edit Kanjivaram if you are building an heirloom collection. At The Saffron House, our team is always available — in-store, via video appointment, or by phone — to help you find the perfect saree for any occasion.